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2006.05.26

勝浦-太地-潮岬-周参見

勝浦から次の碇泊港周参見を目指した。

勝浦を出るとまず太地である。
ここは昔からの捕鯨の港だ。勝浦の街に「第5回伝統捕鯨地域サミット」が太地で開かれるポスターが掲示されていた。
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その昔灯明崎に山見番所があり、鯨を見付けると狼煙を上げた。たちまち刃刺以下15人が乗り込んだ八挺櫓の勢子船が乗り出した。ほかに網舟、持双舟、樽舟、山見舟など10数隻が続いた。
今は灯台が立つ灯明崎を過ぎる度に昔の捕鯨を想うのだ。

昭和53年、津本陽の処女作「深重の海」が刊行され、その年の直木賞を受けた。太地の捕鯨を扱った作品である。
私は直ぐにこの書を読み、深い感動を受けた。
小さな、非力なエンジンのヨットでいつも恐怖に震えながらこの海を渡っていた私にとって、太地の捕鯨漁師を襲う海難が他人事とは思えなかったのだ。
私はこの本を10数冊買ってクルーなどに送った。
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後年、たまたま銀座のクラブで津本陽氏の一行を見かけた。日本経済新聞に連載していた「下天は夢か」の打上げ会のようだった。
私はクラブのママを通して刺を通じ、「かくかくしかじかであなたのファンである。サインを頂きたい。」と所望したところ、色紙を取り寄せてサインしてくれた。
ここに写真を添付する。
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太地を過ぎて大きな灯台が見えてくる。<ここは串本、向かいは大島、中をとりもつ巡行船・・・>の大島である。
大きな島で過ぎるのに随分時間がかかる。今は巡行船ではなく串本との間に橋がかかっている。
串本は潮岬の脇の風待ち港だ。
いつだったか暮れの30日に串本に入った。当時ロングクルーズは休みのとれる正月、5月、お盆の3回しか計画出来なかった。
街を歩いていたらおばさんが餅を載せたリアカーを曳いていた。<分けてくれ>と頼んだが、<全部注文品だから>と断られた。でも、餡の入った草餅を食べさせてくれた。その美味かったこと、いまだに忘れられない。
<よし、周参見に入ったら草餅を買って食べるぞ>と思ったが、周参見でも次の草壁でも草餅を見付けることは出来なかった。

潮岬は本州最南端の岬である。
黒潮に最も近い。
いつもそれなりの感慨がある。

廻ると風が変わる。
ここから西の風が厳しい。
その名も枯木灘と恐ろしい。

4時半に勝浦を出航して36マイル、11時に周参見に入港した。ずっと雨だった。
周参見はカツオのケンケン釣り漁船の港である。
ここで特筆すべきは「港の綺麗さ」である。
とにかく岸壁まわりにゴミ1つない。浜にもない。海にもない。
こんな漁港は世界にないのではないか!
もちろん漁船も綺麗だ。同型の舟が同色に塗られて整然と並んでいる。
さくらえび漁の駿州由比、しらす漁の遠州福田も同型の漁船を揃えているが、ここほど綺麗に揃ってはいない。
とにかくゴミがないのだ。魚市場まで含めて、食品工場なみの清潔さだ。
港内の一角が海水浴場になっている。漁港と海水浴場が並んでいる!まさに奇観である。
これがいずれ漁港のスタンダードになるのだったら、なんだか恐ろしい。
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